9 Soothing Rosacea Treatments That Don't Require a Prescription
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"Are you wearing blush?" is a question I've received since I was old enough to understand English. My answer has always been an automatic "No, that's just my face."
As skin conditions go, I know that I can't really complain about mine. I have a case of rosacea so mild that it passes for makeup most days. Exceptions occur only when I exercise, drink alcohol, eat spicy food, or overheat, which is when my face becomes noticeably more flushed. In these instances, the question typically changes to the somewhat less flattering "Are you OK? Your face…." Still, I've never had a flare-up so extreme that it called for an urgent visit to a dermatologist. A regimen of products labeled "soothing" and "hydrating" is the only change I ever bothered making.
A recent meeting with dermatologist Timm Golueke, M.D., alerted me that I might want to rethink that attitude. "You have rosacea," he informed me midconversation (in the kindest way possible). I considered it a welcome reminder to start assembling a more tailored skin care routine.
A very important point to remember when it comes to rosacea is that the chronic condition gets worse over time. According to dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, M.D., it's best to prevent progression in the earlier stages. "Rosacea is in your genes, and while we cannot change our genetic makeup, we can change the way that our genes are expressed," he says. Dr. Golueke notes that a milder version will manifest as facial redness (although having facial redness doesn't necessarily indicate that you have rosacea), while more aggressive versions cause pimplelike bumps on your cheeks and nose. Triggers include spicy foods, the sun, and irritating skin care ingredients (particularly retinols, exfoliants, and anything acid-based).
As for treatments, there are common prescription options that are both topical and oral. I'm currently using Soolantra on Dr. Golueke’s suggestion, which contains the active ingredient ivermectin. Ivermectin helps reduce the level of mites living on your skin, which is increased (thereby causing inflammation) in those with rosacea. Your dermatologist may also prescribe Mirvaso or Rhofade, both of which constrict blood vessels in your face, reducing the appearance of redness for hours.
Then there's Oracea, a medication taken by mouth that reduces inflammation from the inside out. "While it's technically considered an antibiotic, the dose is so low that it doesn't kill any bacteria," says Dr. Zeichner. "It really works as an anti-inflammatory treatment, and because of this, it can be taken for extended periods of time without the risk of bacterial resistance."
In the realm of beauty tech, LED light therapy also scores points for reducing redness. This is an option celebrity aesthetician Joanna Vargas often recommends. "It thickens your skin and helps eliminate that persistent redness," she says. "LED light has been proved to increase the energy in living tissue, which is why it stimulates collagen production, reduces inflammation, and speeds healing." In her practice she often administers the treatment with her RevitaLight Bed.
While LED facials and derm appointments are highly recommended if you want to effectively treat your rosacea, they don't cover everything else you do at home. So to make sure your top shelf is fully expert-approved, I asked the pros to also weigh in on effective over-the-counter products for rosacea. Below, an everyday routine that will keep your face cool and calm—no prescription needed.
1/9Avène Antirougeurs Day Soothing Cream SPF 25
"Small steps like adjusting your skin care routine can help mild cases, but there are treatments and special skin care products that treat rosacea, as well," says Dr. Golueke. "This day cream helps to neutralize facial redness and also features SPF 25." The French pharmacy favorite contains soothing, hydrating thermal spring water that's ideal for use on sensitive skin. The subtle green tint isn't noticeable once you rub it in, but thanks to simple color theory, it helps counteract extreme redness.
2/9Neutrogena Sheer Zinc Dry Touch Sunscreen SPF 30
You should already be wearing SPF every single day, but there's something else to consider if you have rosacea (and the extremely sensitive skin type that comes with it), particularly if you're experiencing a flare-up. Dr. Zeichner notes that mineral-based sunscreens are less likely to cause irritation than those with chemical blockers. His pick is this drugstore buy; its active ingredient is zinc oxide, which he recommends for its soothing, protective benefits.
3/9La Roche-Posay Rosaliac AR Intense
This is one of the best calming products you can find at the drugstore. "I always suggest anything with anti-inflammatory ingredients," says Dr. Golueke. "Look for products with soothing botanicals like aloe vera and fern extract. Both over-the-counter and prescription anti-inflammatory creams help calm the inflammation we see in rosacea." He recommends this serum for its cooling feel and derm-approved ingredients list. Thermal spring water and a botanical extract called ambophenol help counteract irritation.
4/9Aveeno Ultra-Calming Nourishing Night Cream
Dr. Zeichner stresses that you want to keep your skin barrier in as good shape as possible. To achieve this, use gentle, hydrating moisturizers. (You should also consider stepping away from any exfoliating ingredients, especially on areas of your face where you're experiencing flare-ups.) "This cream contains skin-soothing feverfew to help reduce inflammation," he says of this drugstore hero. The rich formula is also packed with oatmeal, another go-to for calming complexions.
5/9Joanna Vargas Rejuvenating Serum
It's a good idea to look for keywords like calming or redness relief when you're shopping for a rosacea-friendly routine. Vargas looks for ingredients like aloe in ingredients lists—she is also a proponent of putting the plant straight on your skin or mixing it with water and other botanicals as a DIY face mist, if you'd prefer. Another tip she gave me was to increase the circulation in my skin. She likes to do this with neroli oil, which you can find in this Rejuvenating serum. It softens, soothes, and packs a hefty dose of hydration.
6/9Dermalogica Redness Relief Essence
I love the Ultra Calming line from Dermalogica—this new addition is perhaps the best one yet. It's halfway between a toner and a serum and sinks in instantly. The formula is packed with licorice root and oat-derived extracts to counteract irritation, but it also provides more than a short-term soothing fix. Sage extract actively works to rebuild your complexion's protective lipid barrier, making it less prone to reactions.
7/9Eminence Organics Calm Skin Arnica Masque
Once or twice a week, I enjoy slathering my face in something really concentrated in hydrating ingredients—a tip Dr. Golueke also gives his patients. Avoid masks that promise to brighten or resurface (this is usually hints at some form of exfoliation). Vargas swears by this popular option, which dissipates redness quickly and continues working to keep it under control. "My favorite solution for rosacea is arnica," she says, citing the plant that has both anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. (It's also known to improve circulation and help protect skin from environmental stressors.)
8/9Royal Fern Phytoactive Hydra-Firm Intense Mask
I encountered this luxurious tub of pale green goop last month and have been hooked every since. It feels wonderfully cooling as soon as I apply it and can be left on overnight as a sleep mask. Dr. Golueke says it "provides instant hydration and reduces chronic inflammation." The ingredients list combines things like sea buckthorn, chlorophyll, and plenty of hyaluronic acid. On the few occasions that I have slipped into my old habits and absent-mindedly doused my skin in too many AHAs, this goes a long way in undoing the damage.
9/9La Roche-Posay Rosaliac CC Cream
I sincerely hope the brand decides to make many more shades of this skin-care-foundation hybrid—currently there is only one, which is a shame. The formula wears comfortably and includes SPF as well. What makes it special is the ingredients list. Not only does it make your skin look less red; it also treats it with calming ingredients. Ambophenol (yes, that same plant extract I mentioned earlier) is responsible for this, while vitamin E helps neutralize free radicals. Also, it's moisturizing and lightweight—important when your skin isn't feeling its best.
